Find answers to some common questions asked by our customers. Please contact us if you can't find what you are looking for.

Primers & Acoustic

Explain the meaning of the term "primer."
Primer is a crucial part of the tiling process since it strengthens the adhesive's bonding properties and promotes better overall tiling system adhesion. The most prevalent reason for failure when gluing tiles onto surfaces is inadequate or inappropriate surface preparation. Why is it helpful to start with a primer? The absorption rate of tiled surfaces may be controlled with a good primer. Improved water retention means longer curing and greater final strength. Rapid drying of adhesives prevents them from developing their full force and may cause them to become brittle. • Extended open time for the glue allows for a greater surface area to be covered with adhesive and a more significant number of tiles to be set. Primers also help enhance the binding of tile adhesives, among other things. Primers are superior to adhesives because they seal any stubborn dust and penetrate deeply into the bare surface. After being laid on wet glue, more time will be required for tiles to settle into position. You'll have more time to correct crooked tiles with more extended re-flow periods for floor levelers and less pin-holing in waterproofing membranes. Should I use a primer? Due to its lack of absorbency, a waterproofing membrane should be applied only on impermeable substrates. All other tiling surfaces should be primed before tiling. Failure to use a primer may render your product and tiling system warranties null and invalid. Does heat have any influence on primers, and how? When applied to hot materials, primers may "flash dry" or evaporate before penetrating the material's pores, so controlling porosity and trapping embedded impurities.

What kinds of surfaces may be used as waterproofing foundations?

Concrete and screed are the two most typical subfloors. Fiber cement sheets, wet area plasterboard, composite timber sheets, structural plywood, concrete, blockwork, render, and existing tiles are all acceptable alternatives.
When putting a waterproof membrane, should I first prepare the surface? Yes. All waterproofing membranes need priming before installation. Primers help the waterproofing membrane stick better to the substrate, reduce the likelihood of pinholes and blisters, and prevent small dust particles from adhering to the surface. PrimeX should be used on smooth, non-porous surfaces, whereas Ultraprime should be used on rough, porous ones. Where do we need to install waterproofing? Applications include shower stalls, bathrooms, and laundry rooms on the inside; planter boxes, water tanks, ponds, retaining walls, swimming pools, and spas on the outside; and roofs, decks, and balconies.
Over a waterproofing membrane, what kind of tile adhesive should I use? We suggest a tile adhesive made of flexible cement over a waterproof membrane. In contrast to pre-mixed tile adhesives, cement-based adhesives dry by a chemical process called hydration, which causes them to cure across a membrane.
The question is, "What could cause my waterproofing system to fail?" A few typical reasons why waterproofing systems fail are: Water stops for hobless showers are too low; waterproofing membrane is not primed before application; bond breaker is not used or is the wrong size; sealant is incompatible with waterproofing membrane; waterproofing membrane and tile adhesive do not bond well together; poor bathroom design

Precisely what is a tile adhesive?

When affixing tiles to a wall or floor, an adhesive is required. In the same way that adhesives may benefit from additives, sealants can also. It is possible to use a pre-mixed paste or a cement-based adhesive for tiling. How much adhesive is needed to adhere tiles to a surface depends on factors such as the area to be tiled, the kind of tiles being used, the substrate they will be set on, and the temperature and humidity of the room where the tiles will be installed.
Can you recommend an appropriate tile adhesive for stack stone? We advise using a combination of DCI 300 and LATEX for really heavy stones. Is it possible to tile over existing tiles, and if so, what kind of glue should I use? Yes. LATEX should be used with tile adhesive in damp area installations. After the DCI Grip primer has dried, you may apply the flexible cement-based glue or DCI 400 directly to the subfloor.
Is it possible to tile over brick, and if so, what kind of glue should I use? No. Acrylic modified render primed with DCI Tile Adhesives Primer is what you should use. Once the glue has cured for 24 hours, DCI 400 tile adhesive may be applied. It is also possible to use an adhesive such as DCI 300 or DCI 300 PLUS; however, the cement must be fully set for seven days before the adhesive is applied. Where can I get information on adhesives that work well for tiling over the villa board? Villa board may serve as a plastic base. On flexible substrates, we advise priming and then applying DCI 400, DCI 300 PLUS or DCI 300 Do I need to remove the wooden floor before tiling? No. Tiling directly is not something we suggest. To prepare a wooden floor for tiling, you must first apply an underlayment of ceramic tiles that is 6mm thick. In what way do high temperatures affect cement-based adhesives? The rate at which cement particles react with water increases as temperature rises. The cement crystals that form are substantially smaller, and the bonding is much weaker when the acceleration is caused by temperature rather than by particular chemicals in the formulation.
Can low humidity have an impact on cement adhesives? Cement crystals can only react with liquid water. Weaker bonding will result if the water in the glue evaporates before the particles have responded. What happens to cement-based adhesives when exposed to high temperatures and low humidity? Pot life, open time, and acclimation time are all drastically shortened as a direct consequence of these two characteristics.


A Definition of Epoxy Grout In industrial settings, chemical resistance is a must, and Epoxy Grout was developed to meet that need. Epoxy grout is necessary for tiling installations in commercial locations such as dairies, breweries, food processing industries, hospitals, public bathrooms, commercial kitchens, and laundromats. Supplements and Enhancers The term "adhesive/grout additive" describes what that substance is. The primary function of addition is to improve the product's functionality. Additives may be included in cement-based adhesives and grouts. The performance of the tile adhesive and/or grout can be enhanced by the additive in one or more of the following ways, depending on the additive's unique characteristics: • Increasing shear bond strength • Increasing or adding flexural strength • Increasing water resistance • Improving stain and chemical resistance.

How To Apply Tile Adhesive

It's simpler than you would think to place tiles neat and orderly. You can accomplish it by yourself if you only put in the time and effort to plan and prepare, and follow our detailed instructions.

Step 1: Get the surface ready

Verify twice that there is no damage to the surface and that the area is clean of wax, soap scum, and oil. Fix any holes or bumps and make sure everything is level. The greatest outcomes will occur on spotless, flat, and dry surfaces.

Get rid of any moldings, trim, or appliances that might get in the way of tiling, and double-check the door jambs to make sure the tiles will go below without hitting anything. By anticipatorily spotting these possible roadblocks, you can ensure a seamless installation.

Step 2: Initiate Your Layout

Starting with the middle of each room's walls is an essential first step in creating an effective plan. Once you've located the corners, snap chalk lines between them to mark the exact center of the room. If the squares that result from the intersection are not ideal, make the appropriate changes.

Tile spacers should be used to provide regular spacing between tiles. Loose tiles should be laid in a row along the center lines in both directions, beginning in the center. When you get to the walls, you'll need to trim tiles to make them fit. Adjust the center line by snapping a new line half a tile closer to the wall if the required cuts are less than half a tile in size. Repeat this process along the intersecting center line to get a more exact design.

Dividing a big area into manageable sections by snapping extra lines perpendicular to the centerlines creates 23-foot grids.

Step 3: Stick It On

Remember that you should only combine as much glue as you need within 30 minutes. Spread a 1/4-inch layer on the surface of one grid area, avoiding the recommendations, using the flat side of the trowel type suggested on the adhesive packaging.

Then, comb the glue into the vertical ridges using the notched side of the trowel, holding the scoop at a 45-degree angle. This way, you may create a homogeneous, ridged setting bed for your Tile after scraping away the extra glue. Generally, you shouldn't use more adhesive than can dry in 15 minutes.

Be methodical, and your tile installation will go more smoothly.

Step 4: Prepare Tile for Installation

A tile cutter is the best tool for making clean, accurate cuts in any direction, including straight and diagonal. First, mark the intended cuts on the Tile utilizing a pencil or felt-tip pen. Using a nipper, skillfully make curving cuts, chipping away tiny fragments.

A rod saw is your best bet for curved cuts of any significant length. After you've done your cutting, use a carborundum stone to buff the Tile's edges to a satiny sheen.

Step 5: Place your Tile

You are ready to begin installing your Tile since you have prepped the area, made the plan, applied the glue, and cut the Tile.

Get started laying tiles at the room's focal point by applying a single grid at a time and completing it before moving on to the next. When placing tiles inside a grid, it's best to begin in a corner and work outward.

Always use a twisting motion while placing tiles rather than sliding them. It's essential to allow equal joints between tiles or use spacers as you install them. Each grid's perimeter tiles should be installed last, with a 1/4-inch space between them and the wall.

After the grid has been laid out, the tiles should be tapped into place using a rubber mallet, hammer, and wood block to create a strong binding and flat surface. To avoid an uneven look, clean up any extra glue with a putty knife and a moist sponge.

Finally, wait at least 24 hours before stepping on your hard work. And don't forget to stand back and appreciate your hard work on the floor for at least 20 minutes!

Step 6: Consolidating the Joints with Grout

After letting the Tile sit for 24 hours to allow the adhesive to settle, the next step is to "grout" or fill the joints and consolidate the floor into one mass.

Following the package's directions and safety concerns, mix only as much grout as can be used within 30 minutes. You may use a rubber grout float or a squeegee to push the grout down into the joints as you remove the tile spacers and distribute them over the tile surface.

With the float tilted at a 45-degree angle, extra grout may quickly scrap off the surface. Now scrape the float over the tiles at a 90-degree angle.

After around 15 to 20 minutes, to allow the grout to cure, you may wipe down the surface with a moist sponge to remove any excess and smooth the grout seams.

You should replace the water in the container holding your sponge often and give it a good rinsing.

When grout dries, and haze appears on the tile surface, polish with a soft cloth and give it another sponge cleaning with clean water if required. Keep foot traffic to a minimum for at least three weeks after grouting, which goes double for sealing and polishing.